Trachycephalus resinifictix (milk frog)

Origin: South America
Lifespan: 5 to 10 years
Length: Around 12 centimeters
The milk frog is one of the largest tree frogs in captivity. They stand out with their brown and white stripes, blue toes, and black rings around their eyes. At night, they have a loud call.

Care:
Experience: Beginner frog keeper
Food: Insects
Feeding adults: Insects 2-3 days a week
Feeding young: Fruit flies daily
Water bowl: Yes
Water change: Daily

Feeding
In captivity, the animals are best fed crickets and grasshoppers, and occasionally a pinkie. These should preferably be administered live, because if the feeder insects do not move, they will not be mistaken for food. These feeder insects can simply be released into the terrarium. Dead prey is also possible, but you will have to move it with tweezers. Ensure that your frog does not become overweight (if you suspect it is getting too fat, you can reduce the amount of food).

If you purchase live feeder insects, they should not remain in the original box for too long, as this will cause the quality to deteriorate. You can also lightly dust the feeder insects with vitamin D3 because (if there is no UVB lamp in the terrarium) the frog does not produce enough of it. The best time to feed coral-toed tree frogs is when the main lighting is switched off. However, many of the animals will also remain active when you feed them during the day.

Water
In the wild, the milk frog is commonly found near water. A large water bowl must be available at all times and the water must be changed daily.

Cleaning
To keep the terrarium as clean as possible and to keep the animals healthy, it is important to remove food scraps and feces as quickly as possible. It is important to have good ventilation in the terrarium, as mold can easily form if the ventilation is poor. If you find any form of mold, you must remove it immediately. Other debris, such as dead plant remains, must also be removed from the terrarium daily. Only warm water without cleaning agents should be used for cleaning. If disinfection is absolutely necessary, the terrarium must be rinsed and dried thoroughly.

Handling
The frog should be handled as little as possible, as this can damage the skin; even a small amount of salt on our hands can irritate the skin. If necessary, you can catch them by letting them walk into a container without using your hands.

Housing
Minimum enclosure size: 2 frogs in a terrarium of 75x45x75 cm.

Daytime temperature: 24-29 degrees Celsius
Nighttime temperature: 20-24 degrees Celsius
Light hours: 12 hours
Lighting: If you wish to hang UVB lamps near the animals, use a maximum of 2.5% UVB and no higher. This can harm your animals. Humidity: 50-90%
Substrate: Moisture-retaining substrate. Coco husk/cocopeat is best, but regular potting soil is also acceptable. Sphagnum moss is not recommended, as the animals may swallow it and become constipated. Regular moss, however, can be used. Ensure the substrate is slightly damp, but not soaking wet. If you take a handful of substrate and can squeeze a few drops of water out of it, it is fine.

Setup
This type of frog also likes to climb; for this, you can place plants with large leaves and branches in the terrarium. Hollowed-out logs or cork bark are suitable for hiding. However, ensure that all furnishings are cleared of splinters or small twigs that the animals could injure themselves on.

To achieve the desired temperature and provide the animals with a place to bask, a spotlight can be placed in the terrarium. Furthermore, ensure good ventilation in the terrarium; this can be done by placing mesh on the top and front.

Behavior
Lifestyle: aboreal and nocturnal
Character
These frogs are nocturnal animals and generally sleep during the day. They often hide until nightfall in hollow cork bark or other hiding places. They become active at night, and this is the best time to observe them. Many milk frogs will also wake up during the day after their terrarium has been sprayed with water or when they are fed.
Points of attention
Do not use soap or other cleaning agents when cleaning, as this can harm the frog.
Costs and Purchase
Legislation: No CITES or transfer papers are required to own the Milk Frog.

One-time costs: These include the costs for the terrarium, terrarium lighting, hiding places, and decoration. This can amount to a few hundred euros in total. The final amount depends on the quality and size of the products.
Fixed costs: Fixed costs include the cost of food, which is a few tens of euros per year. Unexpected costs: Costs are incurred if your Milk Frog happens to get sick or your equipment breaks down.