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Care
Experience: Beginner tortoise keeper
Food: Vegetables, herbs, special tortoise food.
Feeding adults: Daily
Feeding young: Food available at all times
Water dish: Yes
Water changes: Three times a week
Diet
The Russian tortoise is an herbivore. Suitable captive diets include endive, chicory, and dandelion greens, supplemented with special tortoise food and calcium supplements (special powder or eggshells).
Because the vegetables don't perfectly match their natural diet, vitamins will need to be added to the food at every feeding.
Ensure the food is offered on a special feeding dish. When they eat from the substrate, sand and soil get into the food. This can lead to intestinal problems and constipation. A light or loose feeding dish will be easily knocked over. To help them with this behavior, the food can be offered in smaller pieces, but this is not necessary. Water
Because the American tortoise doesn't live in the wettest places, they don't need a lot of water. A small water dish with a little water in it is sufficient. Don't give them a deep water dish, as they aren't good swimmers and can drown.
Cleaning
As herbivores, they also defecate like true herbivores. For this reason, it's wise to remove feces from the enclosure daily and dirty substrate once a week. It's also wise to thoroughly clean the entire enclosure a few times a year to prevent the buildup of germs and bacteria.
Handling
You'll need to handle your tortoise at some point, and this should be done properly to avoid injury or stress. Handle the tortoise by grasping it from both sides, in the middle of its shell. This is best done when they're unable to scratch your hand with their paws. If this is the case, the turtle can push off on your hand, with all the consequences that entails. Also, always wash your hands before handling the turtle and ensure you handle it with both hands.
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Housing
Minimum enclosure size: 100 x 50 x50 cm
Surface area: 0.75m² per tortoise
Daytime temperature (warm side): 30-35°C
Daytime temperature (cool side): 20-25°C
Nighttime temperature: 20-22°C
Light hours: 12 hours
Humidity: 40 and 50%
Substrate: Coarse sand, loam sand, or beech chips
Equipment
The Russian tortoise requires a true steppe terrarium. This means the terrarium should be relatively bare with few plants. A visual barrier should be placed in the terrarium to ensure that the tortoises can separate from each other in case of conflict. This can be achieved by placing a large piece of wood or a fake plant in the center of the enclosure.
Russian tortoises require UV light to produce vitamin D. You can provide this by using a UV lamp if they're kept indoors. If they're kept outdoors, sunlight is sufficient.
Once it gets nice and warm outside, the tortoises can also be kept in an outdoor enclosure. A simple guideline is: when the nighttime temperature is above 20°C (68°F), the tortoises can stay outside, which is usually from April to September. This outdoor enclosure has a few requirements. It must have a shelter with a heat lamp. This ensures they can still warm up on colder days. The enclosure should also offer shade and hiding places. You can achieve this by adding some plants, but make sure the plants are not poisonous to the tortoise. The tortoises shouldn't be able to escape; due to their climbing habits, a 50cm fence is essential. Finally, it must be safe from dogs, cats, and other predators.
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Behavior
Diet: Herbivore
Lifestyle: Testicular & diurnal
Temperament
They are interesting and active animals that can be busy, but they do need a lot of space to be kept well.
Points of attention
Russian tortoises hibernate. In the wild, they hibernate for up to nine months, but in captivity, it is recommended to hibernate them for eight weeks at a temperature of 4 to 7°C. However, this is not necessary; you, as the owner, will have to make the decision yourself.
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Costs and Purchase
Legislation: The Russian tortoise is classified as CITES II. To own this tortoise, you need CITES or transfer papers. You should receive these upon purchase.
One-time costs: These include the costs of the enclosure, lighting, heating, water tank, and decorations. This can cost anywhere from a few hundred to a few thousand euros. The final amount depends on the quality and size of the products.
Fixed costs: Fixed costs include the cost of food, which amounts to several tens of euros per year.
Unexpected costs: There are costs incurred if your tortoise accidentally becomes ill or your equipment breaks down.
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