Origin: Western and central Australia.
Length: Up to 1.5 to 2.0 meters
Lifespan: Around 25 years
The color can range from light brown to almost black. The pattern consists of a ground color that ranges from medium brown and olive to lighter shades of orange, pink, and red, overlaid with dark striped or brindle markings. The belly is cream or pale yellow with brown and pink patches. The scales around the eyes are usually a darker color than the rest of the head.

Care
Experience: Beginning snake keeper
Food: Live or dead prey.

Feeding adults: Every 14 days
Feeding young: Every 7 days
Water dish: Yes
Water changes: Once a week
Food
This snake usually feeds on ground-dwelling rodents such as mice, chicks, and rats.
You can offer these prey live or dead. However, it's more practical to accustom them to dead prey. The prey can sometimes injure your snake. If you do choose live food, you'll need to supervise your snake while feeding, as most prey can also injure it. Also, feed the snake outside its enclosure and with tongs to prevent unnecessary injuries. If they are kept together, it's wise to separate them during feeding. Snakes can sometimes attack the same prey or attack each other, which can lead to unnecessary injuries.

Water
The snake needs a water bowl that it can lie completely in when curled up.

Cleaning
To prevent disease and bacterial growth, the enclosure must be kept clean. This can be done weekly, and it's also wise to thoroughly clean and disinfect the enclosure a few times a year. This prevents bacteria from building up. When cleaning, be sure to also clean climbing branches and raised areas.

Handling
Like many other snakes, they can be defensive. This makes them difficult to handle. To prevent unnecessary wounds, a snake hook should be used. Only handle them with your hands if you know the snake is accustomed to people. Always remain calm while handling; this minimizes stress on the snake. Finally, there are a few things to keep in mind. The snake cannot be handled in the dark or immediately after shedding its skin, as handling at such times is particularly stressful for the animal.

Housing
Minimum enclosure size for one snake: 150x50x50
Basking area: They need a fairly large basking area, as womas are ground-dwellers and spend a lot of time on the ground. They can also climb branches, so a higher basking platform is recommended.
Daytime temperature (warm side): 31-33°C
Daytime temperature (cool side): 24-29°C
Night temperature: 21-24°C
Light hours: 12 hours
Humidity: 40-50%
Bedding: bark, peat, sand, or peat litter

Equipment
When furnishing the snake, ensure there is ample ground space for the animal to bask. For climbing opportunities, consider a raised basking platform and several climbing branches. Also try to create hiding places with artificial plants or caves on the ground.

Behavior: This species is largely nocturnal. During the day, it can be found hiding in hollow logs or under leaves. When traveling on hot sand or other surfaces, it lifts its body off the ground and extends far forward before pushing off again, with only a few centimeters of body touching the ground at a time.
Hunting Method: Constrictor.
Life Style: Active day and night.
Temperament
More active than many other pythons, but also an "easy to handle" snake, it is one of the strongest python species to keep in captivity. It almost always accepts food, making it a popular snake species in the hobby.

Costs and Purchase
Legislation: CITES B certification is required upon purchase.
One-time costs: These include the costs of the enclosure, lighting, heating, water tank, and decorations. This can cost anywhere from a few hundred to a few thousand euros. The final amount depends on the quality and size of the products.
Fixed costs: Fixed costs include food, which amounts to several tens of euros per year.
Unexpected costs: These are costs incurred if your snake accidentally becomes ill or your equipment breaks down.